Climbing & Bouldering

Train the opposite direction

Climbers develop very strong finger flexors and comparatively weak extensors, and that imbalance is a common contributor to elbow pain. Two to three sets of 15 finger extensions with a rubber band, two or three times a week, is the standard corrective.

Frequently asked questions

When should a beginner start hangboarding?

Not for at least the first six to twelve months of climbing. Finger tendons and pulleys adapt far more slowly than muscle, and early hangboarding is a well-known route to injury. Climb more first.

Loose chalk or a chalk ball?

Chalk balls for gyms that ban loose chalk and for less mess; loose chalk for maximum coverage. Liquid chalk lasts longest between reapplications and is the standard in many indoor gyms.

Do grip trainers help climbing?

General grippers build crush strength, which is not the same as the open-hand and half-crimp strength climbing needs. They are useful for balance and forearm health; specific finger strength comes from climbing and, later, careful hangboard work.